Monthly Archives: August 2011

Everyday is market day on Nice’s Cours Saleya

Everyday is market day on Nice’s Cours Saleya

Cours Saleya, Nice (between 1890 and 1905)
It’s been a week since I returned from my most excellent adventure in Nice. Déjà. (Already.) I miss you, Nice, mon amie. I miss your blue skies, the Mediterranean, your colorful walls, your olive trees and giant palm trees. I can’t wait to see you again.
Today I would like to tell the story of a favorite place of mine: le Cours Saleya. That street, as the French say, is “in-con-tour-na-ble” (not to be missed.) I did not spend a single day in Nice without walking along le Cours Saleya at least once. It was different every time. The light, the people, the colors, kept changing on me. Still, it felt oddly familiar by the end of my first weekend there.
 
Le Cours Saleya neighborhood has always been the heart of Nice. Ideally located, it sits by the Old Town, and a few steps away from the Mediterranean. It was built near the old ramparts (they protected the city and were dismantled in 1706.) The old walls were replaced by two rows of contiguous houses. Known as “les Ponchettes,” (*) they were originally small warehouses where fishermen stored their gear. Their roofs were flat, and as early as the 18th century, they started acting as terraces where locals and visitors used to stroll, admiring the Mediterranean nearby and those glorious Nice sunsets.

Le Cours Saleya developed next to them, replacing the former gardens of the old Ducal palace (today’s préfecture, seat of the region’s government.) On the following picture, you can see the two rows of “Ponchettes“, and the Cours Saleya market stalls behind them. 
 
Elegant boutiques, restaurants and coffee shops soon opened on Cours Saleya, attracting more visitors. By 1839 the  Visconti bookstore, complete with a terrace, became the intellectual center of Nice, the place to see and to be seen. 
In 1861, the Saleya fruit and vegetable market, soon followed by the flower market, were born. Producers and wholesalers struck deals all week long. From there, flowers were shipped expeditiously all over Europe. The market kept growing. So did its reputation, and the crowds.
 
In 1873, the modern version of the famous Nice Carnival took place cours Saleya every winter.
Cours Saleya: the Fish Market (1900, Rose Calvino)
Today, Cours Saleya survives and continues to entertain and enthrall visitors. Is it the faded buildings with stunning façades glowing in the sunset? The sounds, the colors, the sheer energy of the place? The vendors calling out? The smell of spices, fresh herbs, and flowers? Hard to tell. All of the above.
The old terraces on top of “les Ponchettes” (*) are now closed. The Carnival has been moved to a different neighborhood. In 1980, Cours Saleya became a “pedestrian-only” area when a parking lot was built underground. A smart move. 
 
Deals are still being made, though wholesalers have left. Merchants and visitors engage in friendly banter. The selection is varied and oh, so tempting. Flowers and herbs, fragrant hand-milled soaps and fresh produce in the mornings, except Mondays, when antiques (more of a flea market, really) take over. Jewelry and crafts at night, when restaurants and cafés sprawl out in the street, greeting diners. 

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Nowhere is it more true than at the Cours Saleya‘s market.
 
Cours Saleya market: Greeting shoppers during the day…
Cours Saleya: Welcoming diners at night
Monday is bric-à-brac day
Tournesols
Oliviers
Lavande
Bottes de lavande
Les jolis savons de Marseille
Les olives
Les tomates
Zucchini flowers are used to make flower fritters, a local delicacy
These small courgettes are perfect to prepare “les petits farcis” 
(stuffed vegetables)

Fruit and vegetable are the market’s true stars, or are they?

Meet Thereza, the market’s self-proclaimed “Queen.” For years, she has been featured in many guidebooks and television. You might call her a local celebrity. 

The colorful Thereza claims she makes the best Socca in Nice, you see. Socca used to be a snack for peasants and workers. It is the poor man’s food, if you will. Thereza charges 3 Euros for a generous serving of this very thin and soft pancake, served slightly crispy on the edges. Ingredients? Chickpea flour and olive oil. It is quite tasty, even if you are not hungry.

Thereza has been doing this for a long time. She is, as the French say, a “maîtresse femme.” In other words, you don’t mess with Thereza! Her husband cooks la Socca in a small shop located two blocks away from my studio in the heart of the Old Town. As soon as it comes out of the oven, he loads the big pan on his scooter, and rushes to le Cours Saleya where the formidable Theresa (and impatient customers) are waiting. Within seconds, a line forms and she wastes no time slicing and serving la Socca. It takes less than 5 minutes for the big dish to be empty.  

 
People are waiting but nobody cuts the line: Thereza would not approve!

Whether Theresa (and her husband) do, actually, make the best Socca, remains to be seen. Does it matter? One thing is for certain: Thereza delivers one of the best shows in town.

A bientôt.
Watch Thereza and her husband at work in this short video clip:

David Lebovitz once wrote about Socca. Note: In Nice, my favorite Socca comes from Chez Pipo, listed in the article.

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25 Responses to Everyday is market day on Nice’s Cours Saleya

  1. Fascinating Veronique and fabulous photos as always!
    I’m intrigued by the market which has stalls by day and dining by evening. What a very clever idea!
    Where does the food come from? Restaurants at the side of the road? I assume that these cafes take over market space in the evening?

  2. Bonjour Véronique, je suis pressé d’y aller maintenant, après avoir lu tout ceci, mmm, les olives, les tomates, le socca, tout à l’air somptueux… voilà, tu as bien réussi à me tenter de faire un saut là bas (mais bon, on a besoin de peu d’incitation pour partir vers le sud de la (belle) France, n’est-ce pas ?

    Bon courage à ton petit olivier, pour survivre le climat séattleien… et pour vous donner des olives aussi jolies que ceux du marché de Nice 🙂

    J’adore les olives farcies avec de l’ail, des amandes, de l’anchois même…

  3. Thank you so much for this post! Such a market is the dream of any person. I wish we had such a place in Toronto. Thank you for the photos, which have brightened my day.

  4. — Craig — Bonjour to you and thank you for stopping by. Hope all is well and Boris is getting ready for fall. The food served outside at night is prepared in the restaurants and cafes lining up Le Cours Saleya. Terraces just spread out at night once the merchants are gone. It’s all very clever and well organized.
    — Owen — Moi aussi, j’adore les olives. Petit olivier deviendra-t-il grand? Mystere… En attendant, je le surveille de pres.
    — Olga — You are welcome, friend. It sounds as if you could use a stroll on Cours Saleya these days. It is truly a fun, energetic place.

  5. J’aime votre histoire de Nice. Grandes photos, aussi.
    Mais Provence en Washington? Je pense que non. Ou, mais, peut-être. Aujourd’hui, presque quelque chose est possible, je devinent.
    A la prochaine.

  6. Dearest Véronique,

    Oh, my… we both have a lot more in common than we thought at first.
    When I saw your olive tree I thought right away, how come she took a picture of MY olive tree? Ha-ha, we too cling to the Mediterranean culture. Food, lavender, flowers, pâtisserie etc. etc. This was good for my soul to be fed with those lovely images and video.
    About our kitchen, it is 20 years old, only the Miele Cooktop and the Italian Ilve sinks are new. Indeed, Miele is the best and the joy to work with it makes chores a pleasure! We did select the lot to build on for having the sun from the east, for a sunny petit dejeuner! It picks you right up and is such a happy way to start any day. Sunshine is lovely.
    Take care and thanks for this lovely post (as well as the previous one!).
    Love to you,

    Mariette

  7. La socca est une spécialité niçoise, elle existe aussi en Provence, sous le nom de “cade”; mais c’est la même 🙂
    Ton petit olivier est bien joli dans son pot; beau souvenir!

  8. stopped by yesterday…but was pressed for time-IRENE CLEAN-UP-wanted to say SIMPLY LOVELY…the colors, the sights, the sounds, the smells-the feel of being there-what a talent you have to be able to transport us-as ALWAYS a huge thank you!!-g

  9. — Mariette — I am so glad we both have baby olive trees. Let us see which climate will be the kindest to them (I am betting on Georgia!) I need to post a picture of our new French Bistro set (imported from France of course). I placed it on our covered porch so we can enjoy it throughout the fall. It has been wonderful sitting out there and enjoying my coffee this summer. We definitely have a LOT in common. Take care.
    — Filo — Le petit olivier ne vient pas de France hélas. Les Douanes américaines me l’auraient confisqué. Il est né ici, quelque part en Californie, et il passera l’hiver dans la maison sinon… Merci de ta visite!
    — g– Mon amie, how are you doing out there? Did Irene damage your house? Hopefully not. What a weekend this has been on the East Coast. I hope you are all doing well. Send some news when you get a chance. V.

  10. V-oh my gosh-how sweet you are…the shore house was in one of the counties that required total evacuation…wildwood crest(cape may county) never knew it was one of those “barrier” islands everything not in the cement was put inside the house and THANKFULLY only slight wind/water damage the beach did not make out as well erosion and the like. the home in philadelphia suffered some water damage not much but the area around the house is a mess debris/branches stuff like that-and the backyard is swamp like -THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH FOR THE MOST KIND THOUGHTS!! now- i eagerly await photos of the authentic french bistro set….coffee – olive tree – bistro chair -NOW THAT IS LIVING!! i sure hope our fall is long and warm so you enjoy as much time as possible in your little bit of heaven. i hope jr is making a smooth transition back into academia–as well as yourself…when are you officially back in the language studio. OH —-LA RENTREE- it has always been both friend and foe! once again HEARTFELT thanks-ton amie -g

  11. — g — Saw your message while i was “watching” Junior at soccer practice tonight. So glad you are ok and only suffered minor damage at the house. Good luck with the clean up. I can only imagine that is not too much fun. Pictures of “Mediterranean-inspired deck” to follow in future post. A bientot!

  12. Now, I am inspired to get an olive tree. We have “sweet olive” trees in our yard but they are not fruit-producing. I think that an olive would survive on my veranda during our mild winters. Hummmmm…

    Your coverage of Nice is every bit as fine as Rick’s and how perfect that you have some fabulous photos of Thereza… I started drooling with the shot of olives and slobbered right through the (huge) figs and socca!

    I know that I am going to love Nice and will be visiting some blog friends when I go.

    I cannot wait for your next installment…

    Bises,
    Genie

  13. CHÈRE VÉRO!!!!

    J’étais LÀ!!!! Il y a 9 ans, j’habitais NICE et je m’en souviens bien. SALEYA, oh bien sûr; j’y fréquenté le jeudi avant d’aller à l’école. J’habitais rue RIVOLI…je crois!!!! Et la dame qui prépare le SOCCA…oh merci pour ce billet.

    ET à toi aussi…BONNE RENTRÉE! Anita

  14. I enjoyed this journey… love the market, its got so many wonderful things. Love the lavenders and the varieties of fruits on display. Wish I could taste one of Tereza’s delicacies.

  15. Thanks for this – I have just moved near to Nice and am loving exploring the city – loved reading your posts to get nme even more inspired!! Greetings from the Riviera….

  16. — Dash, I am so excited for you! If you are looking for a place to stay in the Old Town, you may want to look at vrbo.com I have found it to be an excellent resource as you go through property owners directly. Try to hit Cours Saleya every morning (an easy thing to do from the Old Town) as the flower market does not happen on Mondays. V.

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In love with Nice

In love with Nice

A long time ago, I fell in love with the idea of Nice and the French Riviera before I even took my first trip here. There were so many stories, and legends. Painters, writers, celebrities have come here, only to become enamored with the light, the vibrancy, the lifestyle. Some stayed. Matisse. Chagall. Others opted…

27 Responses to In love with Nice

  1. Another amazing post Veronique! I feel like I know and love Nice almost as much as you do now! The Nice tourist authority should be hiring you for their publicity work!
    I’m glad that you had such a special time and I’m very sure you will be back very soon indeed.
    Many thanks for the Nice posts – they were wonderful.
    Travel safely.

  2. A am almost speechless, Véronique, as I take in your photos and stories of Nice et ses environs. I truly understand a “love of place” and just how wonderful this time was spent alone here. I have read and listened to your travel experience and will reference all of these before my trip. Merci mille fois!

    Bises,
    Genie

  3. Superb and interesting post. Beautiful pictures as always. Nice sounds far more wonderful than I would have imagined. I loved the picture taken in Villefrance Sur Mer. I agree with Craig that you should be hired by the Nice trourist authority. Safe flying and welcome home!

  4. such a lovely wrap up to a most amazing stay. i have learned and i have ENJOYED…such a powerful combination!!oh and i look forward to all the future posts this trip will provide -rich in detail- filled with information– but most enjoyable– your unique way of BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER!! enjoy the comforts of your family, your four legged loves and your own bed tonight–until next time-g

  5. — Dear posse — So great to hear from you all, as always. Your comments and encouragement during the trip have meant a lot. While I have fun writing my little stories, it’s even more special to hear back from my readers. Some of you are bloggers too, so you know what I mean. Back in Seattle. Le Husband and Junior are finishing up dinner while I unpack my bag. It’s been a long day. See you around next week for a new Most Excellent Adventure! – Veronique aka French Girl in Seattle

  6. Hi V.,
    Was just catching up on your travels, and all I can say is… it looks like your are having ENTIRELY too much fun !

    I’ve loved the trips I’ve taken to Nice, and clearly there is a lot to love about the town, and the environs. Am going to have to go back and scratch some of the dark underside of the city, I’m sure any photographer could have a field day there.

    Alors, de retour de nouveau aux US ? Mais tu ne cesses pas de bouger ! J’espère que parfois tu te retrouves au calme avec un bon bouquin et aucun avion à prendre ? 🙂 Ah, c’est dur la vie de voyageur…

    Merci bcp pour tout tes petits mots sur mes derniers billets, cela fait très plaisir…

    A bientôt…

  7. — Owen — Thank you for stopping back. Isn’t Nice an awesome city? I would really, really want to see your pics if you stop by here again. Unlike me, you know what you are doing with a camera. I can just imagine… Oui, j’ai beaucoup voyage cet ete et grace a l’Europe, j’ai bien profite du soleil (a Seattle, c’etait plutot inegal!) Il faut que je me calme un peu maintenant. C’est la rentree scolaire pour mon fils la semaine prochaine et pour moi aussi. Mes etudiants m’attendent! A bientot Owen. V.

  8. The first time I went to Nice, I remembered the smell of the pine trees then the wonderful aroma of herbs. It is such an amazing city and the back country is so wonderful. Then there is Eze-sur-mer, a quick hop to Italy… Truly wonderful and you are very lucky!

  9. I’ll never stop thanking you for your posts from Nice, which are full of history, your beautiful smile, and things that are missing from my life at this moment.

  10. I love how I learn so much from your blog! It’s amazing. I had heard of Nice (obviously, who hasn’t?!) but I had no idea about the history or its culture. Thank you for filling us in! It would be a dream for me to visit there one day…

  11. What a marvelous job you have done on this post. Not only are your photographs beautiful but you give us so much information. I agree, the best way to feel the spirit of a place is to find an apt. , no matter how tiny, right in the middle of it!

    And for the record , we are all addicted to the Monoprix! I can’t pass one without going in.
    V

  12. I am sighing a little here Veronica. Having only being here last year and it seems so fresh. Friends of mine rented a little house in Old Carros. It was wonderful an Nice and the surrounding areas were their Playground. Who wouldnt go for a visit.
    It is a beautiful part of the world.
    x

  13. Ma chère Véronique,

    Moi, je suis si ravie que vous soyez venue chez MOI!!! ET QUE VOUS AYEZ AFFICHÉ ce billet de NICE! J’y suis allée il y a 9 ans. Ca c’était la première que j’aie vu la France. J’ai passé un mois, TOUTE SEULE à Nice, ensuite, mon mari y est allé avec moi. Italie, puis La Dordogne, Tours, Paris et Avignon nous ont enchantés.

    Merci beaucoup pour être venue me laisser un commentaire. Moi aussi, je suis institutrice dans une école d’immersion ici à Minneapolis: Normandale French Immersion, dans la quatrième. Je suis américaine; en fait, mexicaine-américaine.

    Alors, bonne journée et bienvenue! Anita

  14. I have only just discovered your blog and now am hungry for more stories, more photos and more tours from the “French Girl in Seattle”

    You are coming into a beautiful month in Seattle and the first time I saw Whidby Island (in Sept) I wanted to move there immediately. Enjoy la rentrée et la vie quotidienne.

    Bises,
    Genie

  15. UN petit coucou d’une Véronique à une autre, ravie que tu aies aimé Nice!
    j’essaie d’améliorer mon ridicule petit niveau d’anglais en lisant les blogs américains, et voilà sur quoi je tombe! C’est très amusant!
    Si j’ai bien compris, bonne rentrée!

  16. That’s it Veronique! I am already planning my trip to Nice and I think I am going to stay three nights, somewhere in the old town.

    Next time you come to The South of France you must e mail me in advance, we should meet up somewhere. I often visit Belle Mere in Sanary-sur-Mer, a town I think you would like, the cat is out of the bag now, the town had a big write up this July in Le Figaro Magazine, the mayor was interviewed and stated he did not want to deepen the port and let the big blingy boats in, people say the town is like Saint Tropez was fifty years ago, long may it stay that way!

  17. Dash– Thank you so much for taking the time to read all the Travelogue. It makes me feel very happy that I took all these pictures and wrote my stories during the trip 😉 I will definitely let you know when I come back. I have heard of Sanary but have never been. I was lucky to see St Tropez in the off-season once. I can only imagine how quaint Sanary must be 😉 A bientôt, on your blog, or mine, mon amie. Veronique

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Eze: life on top of the world

Eze: life on top of the world

Bonjour les amis. A recent visit to Eze convinced me that there is indeed, a Heaven, and that we, humans, do not need to wait to get there. Welcome to Eze-le-Village, sitting way up high on la Côte d’Azur, 430 meters (1410 feet) above the Mediterranean.  One of Nice’s many qualities is how democratic the…

15 Responses to Eze: life on top of the world

  1. What an amazing adventure – great work-out and gorgeous views! You are doing a great job of selling Nice! It looks like you are having a wonderful time.
    xx

  2. Well, Veronique, just as I crossed off Monaco, I put this on my list! My camera just about jumped off the table looking at your photos… she cannot wait to get there!

    Rick may be good, but you’ve got the details, baby!

    Bises,
    Genie

  3. Wow great pictures of heaven aka Eze! You really captured the heaven effect with all those clouds. It really is one of the most stunning views I have ever seen. Even if the paint came off the expensive plastic ring I bought there. LOL Nothing is perfect n’est ce pas!? =)

  4. What a beautiful town high in the clouds! Your photos are so beautiful. We passed this town on the train to Monaco but didn’t stop, unfortunately. Maybe this time with Marita. You look great on the terrace with the Mediterranen behind you. That photo should be enlarged, framed and put in your studio. I’m glad you’re having such a wonderful time.

  5. SO BEATIFUL…..really enjoyed this …my most favorite part-the goddesses-i would love to know each of their stories…so so pretty-much like your picture on the balcony…life in nice is nice… definitely agreeing with you…you look so happy and content…till the next installment-g

  6. — g — Yes, “life is nice, in Nice!” This should be the city’s motto, don’t you think? I will try and post one more story if I can but if not, I will wrap up next week after I return. I want to enjoy my last two days here, and there is still a lot I want to see in town. 😉 Great visit so far…

  7. What a fantastic village to visit and in which to have lunch! You look like you’re floating in the clouds! That’s a great shot of you on the balcony Veronique – tres chic…

  8. What a fabulous place! I can’t blame you for never wanting to leave that view…it is breathtaking! I appreciate you reminding me of why I love the Mediterranean. In a former career I used to do a lot of travel to the Mediterranean and I so miss it’s beauty that is offered everywhere one travels…it’s been 10 years since I have been there and I miss it SO much! Thank you so much for reminding me why I love it so in this post~

  9. When I travel with students, they enjoy and admire Paris. It is Nice, however, that always captures their hearts. We like to do a group photo up in the exotic garden of Èze with the Mediterranean and French flag in the background. I’ll bet those photos have done more to “sell” future trips than anything I might say to encourage students to travel!

  10. Absolutely stunning. Thank you so much for sharing your photos and experience. Now I have ANOTHER reason to return to Nice.

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11 Responses to Surviving Monaco and living to tell the story

  1. A fascinating post Veronique. We must be similar souls as we planned to visit MC when we were in Saint Raphael two years ago but on the day we were supposed to go we both said “you know, I just don’t fancy it”. Thank you for confirming this! Have a great time now you’re back in Nice!

  2. I was only in Monaco for a few hours and i also wasn’t impressed. I thought maybe I didn’t give it enough time…or maybe I was just pmsing. I think i would have liked it better if I had gone to Jacques Cousteau’s museum. I didn’t know it was there! I loved watching his shows growing up.=)

  3. Well, now that I have had your very comprehensive tour and assessment, I can just mark this place off my list. I think that I would like a boat ride around it and then just scoot back to Nice!

    If you want to photograph a place, you need to get up early enough to beat the tourists, unless, of course the tourists are the object of the shoot. The narrow street void of people is lovely.

    I look forward to your 2CV post! Enjoy your time away!

    Bises,
    Genie

  4. I think your pictures are a really beuatiful. I too found a lot of hoop la over nothing. I’m glad I was there but have no desire to return. Thank you for sharing.

  5. — Craig — Seriously, what’s up with Monaco? I am sure it looks a lot better at night with all these buildings but still…
    — Sandy — Loved Commandant Cousteau’s shows as well. I always visit aquariums. There are some fantastic ones in the US as well…
    — Genie — You should go anyway, then cross it off your list. Come to think of it, the tour boat company did offer a round trip without stopping in Monaco. I think I know why now 😉
    — Jean — Thank you for posting. I am glad you enjoyed my pics, taken with a simple “point-and-shoot” camera. 😉 Come back soon.

  6. oh v— SO SORRY for the slight disappointment– at least there was some time on the water and the wonderful museum…i would really like that… love the world under water!! now i have to be honest…and admit i am somewhat partial to monaco. i have spent some time there on 2 separate occasions..one in the hilt of august vacation season and another time in oct./nov.. i think i like it because of the grace kelly association and her philadelphia roots (i passed the house she grew up in very often visiting a friend who lived in that neighborhood)…so the old “local girl makes good” mentality…not to mention her beauty and pose…loved her sense of style…v- I LOVE THE 2CV- SOMEDAY I WILL OWN ONE AS WELL AS THE FIAT 500 VINTAGE- JUST ADORE VINTAGE POCKET CARS cannot wait for this post—- now i am sure tommorrow WILL BE JUST DEVINE…adore reading ALL your adventures-good and not so good-looking forward to part 3! -g (proud to be part of your posse by the way)

  7. — g — I am glad you threw your two cents in! I was beginning to wonder if ANYONE has ever enjoyed Monaco and gone back (other than a friend of mine who vacations there on a regular basis, of course.) Yes, Grace was a great lady. I like her even more now that I know what a great friend she was to Josephine Baker of course. I am past the disappointment already since i had a fabulous visit in Eze le Village the following day. Story coming up in a few hours!

  8. Your photos of Monaco are beautiful, they bring back fond memories of our day trip there in May 2006. We took the train from Villefranche-sur-mer on a lovely warm day. We took a short train ride around the city and enjoyed our day. You are right about all the bldgs, but the harbor was so magnifique. It was just fun to see how the truly wealthy live. If I was in that league, I would buy a chateau or villa somewhere on the Riviera…sigh.

  9. Veronique, I am not overly fond of Monaco/Monte-Carlo either, to paraphrase Somerset Maugham, it truly is ‘A Sunny Place for Shady People’. I went years ago and have no desire to return, I had some friends that lived there for tax reasons, they hated it and could not wait to get out. Most people that live there rent as it’s difficult to buy, transient and square meterage is ridiculously overpriced. It’s full of high class hookers, very dodgy people and tourists in a pristine, manicured and pretentious environment which resembles Disneyland more than the South of France. Interesting to think that if the Principality has no legitimate heirs, Monaco will be taken over by France and would no doubt lose it’s Tax Haven status! Those plastic, floating Gin Palaces are awful aren’t they! Give me a good old fashioned sailing boat with wood, brass and sails anyday, there is one of those vulgar things in the port of Saint Tropez, called ‘Don’t Touch’ says it all really. I saw ‘Lady Moura’ a few years ago bobbing about in Calvi port in Corsica, the port was not deep enough to take her, Ahh! Have you been to Corsica? I think it’s the most beautiful place I have ever visited.

  10. — Welcome back, Dash– Glad it was not just me. Seriously, what a let down that place was. I had always wanted to go and see what the fuss was about. Now I know. I would go back just for the Musee Oceanographique. That place alone was worth the price of my boat ride ticket! Never been to Corsica, nope, but Le Brother and Le Husband have been discussing a plan that involves chartering a sailboat and cruising around Corsica I believe. Will keep you posted 😉 V.

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Living on Nice time.

Living on Nice time.

This post was written in the summer of 2011. It has been updated. Greetings from la Côte d’Azur [the French Riviera, to non French speakers] les amis! I landed in Nice on Saturday around lunchtime after a long, but uneventful trip. My bags arrived on time too because I traveled with a carry-on. I was…

17 Responses to Living on Nice time.

  1. Clearly I need to put Nice on my list of places that I must visit as it is beautiful! I can imagine sitting in the studio and listening to the nightlife below, or enjoying my meals outdoors. Oh la la!

    Enjoy every minute!
    xx

  2. Beautiful photos of a beautiful city. I enjoy your historical facts which make your blogs so interesting. Il fait beau – I hope it stays that way. I will vicariously travel along with you in Nice. By the way, our plans are set: Paris, Aix-en Provence and Frejus. I didn’t realize the strong Italian, Roman influence in the riviera. We will have the car in Aix and Frejus. We are getting so excited! Onward…

  3. OMG Veronique-could you make me any more jealous? Have you seen the view from the exotic garden in Eze? That is one of my top Aww moments…anyway enjoy the heck out of Nice will ya! And another favorite quote from French Girl in Seattle” (before Eve offers Adam the dang apple!)”ha!

  4. — Kimberly — Oui, you have to come here as well. Lots of fantastic places along the French Riviera, of course, but only the best will do for this French Girl 😉
    — Cherie — Merci. You can’t ignore Nice’s Italian heritage. It’s everywhere you look, and Italy is only a short drive away. In fact, there is a cute square near the studio, name Place Rossetti, that feels just like an Italian piazza.
    — Sandy — Ha! ha! Did you notice that in Chagall’s painting, Adam is “celibately” practicing yoga and doing his best to ignore Eve? Too bad he could not resist, in the end! 😉

  5. It looks amazing Veronique. I love Nice too and I’m very jealous! I haven’t been to the Chagall museum so thanks for the tip… it looks great.
    Have a great time (as I know you will)!

  6. — Bonjour Craig — Thank you for stopping by. I can’t believe how many good museums there are in Nice. The Chagall building was the exception as I had to pay 9 Euros to get in. Most of the other museums (including Matisse) are free! I’ll never say it enough: Awesome city! 😉

  7. Nice is on our itinerary for next April and I hope to visit with blog friends there as well as enjoy the exquisite beauty of this region of France. I have been as far south as Arles and have been as far west in Italy as Milan and the lakes, but I am excited to see your post and have marked it for our trip.

    I am going to make a general apology for the uneducated Americans (as a group) that bash cultures and places they have never been. As an American, I try to represent the “good tourist” as I travel (and always defend the French in the USA)!

    Bises,
    Genie

  8. — Genie — Welcome chez French Girl and thank you for leaving a comment. You and your blogger friends will love this area. There will be no crowds in April and with a bit of luck, you should enjoy mild and sunny weather. Love your blog by the way, and have just started following it. Come back anytime. V.

  9. v -i am ABSOLUTLY having the VERY BEST SUMMER OF MY LIFE….traveling along with you on this journey as well as the previous one….i waited till monday to check in thinking you landed on sunday….i am so glad the trip has been good to you and for you so far– knowing it shall remain as such the remainder too!!…and as always am so grateful for your time- writing and photographing each step along the way…when we, my sister and i, were young, a chagall exhibit passed through philadelphia and my mom took us. it made such an impression and although typically not my favorite type of artisitic expression color and medium i really do like chagall’s work.impressionism-pre and early post are my favorites. are you going to log any beach time? hoping the wifi gives enough of a signal to keep all of us in the know…BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY ENJOY THE BEAUTY OF THE SURROUNDINGS AND THE TIME TO JUST BE YOU!!be well and STAY SAFE. looking forward to part deux!!-g

  10. Veronique,
    What a delightful blog you have! I regret that I”ve never been able to travel to the south of France but dream of it nonetheless. Your photographs make me want to pack my bags this morning!

    Like Genie, I try to be the “good tourist” when in Paris. J’adore!
    V

  11. This is why I love blogging – when I’m busy, I still have the opportunity to travel around the world through blogs 🙂 To you, I can only say “More posts, and more photos, please!” 🙂

  12. — Virginia — Welcome chez French Girl! I am sure you, too, are a “perfect” tourist in Paris and I hope you make it soon to Southern France. C’est incroyable! Come back soon!
    — Olga — Merci Olga. You got it. I will be taking pics just for you (they won’t be as pretty as yours!) A bientôt!

  13. Hi Veronique, I am comfortably seated with a glass of Bordeaux in hand, enjoying reading the posts I have missed. It’s amazing to think that all the years I have been visiting PACA, I still have not been to Nice, we drove all the way along the front on our recent trip, starting with the airport, Belle Mere informed me that it’s the second largest airport in France and that often when you land, you think your going to end up in the Med! I see what she meant I had no idea it was literally right on the waters edge. I loved driving through and spotted The Regina and The Negresco etc, I particularly love the East side of Nice, the old archways that lead to the old town and the market and all those magnificent Italianate style buildings that curve round the port on the way out of Nice, the colours of the buildings are wonderful and I noticed a lot of turquoise blue ceramic glazed bulastrading, roof-tiles and other features which must be a local characteristic. After reading your post and driving through, I am determined to visit for a couple of days, maybe in October.

  14. — Dash– I see you kept your promise and returned to visit my travelogue. Welcome back. Yes, there is a lot to fall in love with in Nice and I, for one, intend to go back as often as I can 😉 I am glad you are planning to visit in the fall. The weather should still be lovely then and the summer crowds will be long gone. I will certainly be looking forward to your post about the area if you find inspiration there 😉 Veronique

  15. We are going to Nice in August but we are only there for 24 hours. before we head to our river cruise up the Rhone. I can not wait and will hit the ground running as soon as we get there.

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19 Responses to The extraordinary life of Josephine Baker

  1. Words cannot describe how much I love Josephine Baker. And words cannot describe how much I love this post. 🙂

    What a wonderful, thorough biography! Thank you so much. I am a fan of hers (seen a few films) and always admired her. But I honestly didn’t know all there was to know. Now I do!

  2. Dearest Véronique,

    This has been one of the most enjoyable and eye-opening posts I’ve read in a LONG time! It took me a while to listen to all the interviews and watch the videos but it was worth while!
    La Baker was indeed a True STAR! So refreshing to read, see and hear something like that at this time and age. She was smart; speaking indeed fluently French and her performance was extraordinary.
    Like you write: ‘Move over, Angelina Jolie!’ And what a noble person compared witth the emotion-centered aproach of Ophrah Winfrey who was only greedy!
    It also spoke volumes about Grace Kelly and even La B.B.! By the way, B.B. impressed me with her natural speech, off the top of her head without a teleprompter as our B.O. is using!
    And what an honor for being recognized by the French military for all her accomplishments; some very heroic.
    A grande dame indeed.
    Thanks for sharing this with us. Those that don’t stop by to read this post miss out big.

    Lots of love,

    Mariette

  3. Merci beaucoup Mariette! So happy you liked reading about Josephine’s life– and what a life it was. I am sure she was not easy to live with. In fact, she was well known for being hot tempered. Still, she was trying so hard to be a decent human being. Surely, in this day and age, this counts for something. A bientôt! V.

  4. What an amazing post Veronique. The depth of detail is quite remarkable. I was aware of JB and her loving relationship with France, but to in the detail you provided. Many thanks for the fun and educational post.

  5. Wonderful post Veronique ! An excellent article, which will surely encourage some to dig even deeper to learn more about JB and her life… but already you have given us plenty of food for thought and appreciation…

  6. Wonderful story about Josephine Baker, what a fascinating woman. To her imitators – move over! When Steve and I were in New York city some years ago, we went to the restaurant “Josephine’s” which is operated by one of her sons. It was very fun, energetic and lively place, never forget it. Continue your great posts!

  7. — Craig. Merci. Your former French home was not that far from Les Milandes. You and Josephine were practically neighbors! 😉
    — Owen. Many thanks. What are you doing online? I thought you were on vacation 😉
    –Cherie. Merci, as always, for the support and encouragement. I certainly hope you have added “Les Milandes” to your list of places to see while visiting le Perigord this fall!

  8. I always felt that Josephine Baker was a star that cannot be emulated, in any detail or aspect. The most impressive of her images is when she is wearing the banana skirt. Thank you for the wonderful and informative post.

  9. What a wonderful post! This is the first time I have read your blog, but not the last…

    I have always known about Josephine Baker, but you have really opened my eyes – I learned so much from you today! I am at work, so cannot see the videos, but I will come back tonight on my home computer.

    Thank you so much for your wonderful informative writing!

  10. — Olga. Merci my friend. I love the banana skirt too. There are a lot of pictures of Josephine wearing it out there. I even saw pics of Beyonce “imitating” Josephine in a banana skirt of her own!
    — Bisbee. Welcome to my blog and thank you for leaving some feedback. I am glad you enjoyed reading about Josephine’s life. Come back anytime!

  11. v-i cannot believe my computer did not let me see this post until last night…i had a very slight knowledge of La Baker- but was ALWAYS curious …. and as owen put it, i will begin the gathering and reading quest, as i find stories such as her’s quite rewarding -in that there is this indomitable spirit…difficult to live with, bien sur…spirit and difficulty often walk hand in hand. my girl has always been edith piaf-love her, love her story and love her music. maybe someday you will do a post about her…as i have said before the methodology of your presetation/education is simply BEYOND excellent! so glad i finally got to visit and talk. as always looking forward to the next one….stay well -g

  12. — g– I have missed you this week, but assumed you were on the coast, chillin’ 😉 Thank you for stopping by. Ah, Edith Piaf… You may have inspired another story… Did you notice I just added a category named “Les Grands/Great Ones”? This one has Edith’s name all over it! A bientot!

  13. Bonjour, elle a aussi nous dans un film d’Edmond T Greville qui s’appelait princesse Tam Tam…
    On peut en trouver des extraits sur YouTube….amities

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