Monthly Archives: October 2015

10 French kitchen must-haves

10 French kitchen must-haves

The French kitchen (especially its Provençal version,) is popular in the United States. I have often visited beautiful homes where imported le Jacquard Français tablecloths and dish towels or Laguiole knife sets, to name just a few, are proudly displayed, cherished souvenirs of trips to la Belle France. As I was working in my American apartment-size kitchen the other day, I started making a list of the French items I have always had around. I suspect they would be found in many French natives’ kitchens as well. You have probably spotted them in that rental apartment you booked through AirbnB or vrbo.com during your last trip to France. Do you recognize them?

First, voilà three classics in French cookware:

1. La cocotte le Creuset.

This is the French brand that will outlive them all. Since 1925, the cast iron le Creuset dutch oven has been lovingly manufactured in France. Drawbacks? Only two: The sheer weight of the larger size cookware (lifting a cocotte is the only upper body workout most French women likely indulged in for years,) and the hefty price tag. Benefits? There are many, from the gorgeous colors, to the ease of cleaning, and of course, the ability to turn almost any recipe into a smashing hit. Julia Child would not have been caught dead without her trusted le Creuset cookware. If something was good enough for Julia; then it is good enough for most of us amateur cooks.

Cocotte le Creuset
The iconic Le Creuset cocotte in Flame color

2. La cocotte-minute (l’auto-cuiseur) 

When I lived in Paris, most friends of mine owned a pressure cooker. Americans have a love-hate relationship with them. They got a bad rap in this country in the 1950s when the process was not as reliable as it is today; and many accidents were reported. Things went downhill after artisanal pressure cookers were used during terrorist attacks in recent years. I suspect that if French police were to investigate every kitchen equipped with an old – or new – pressure cooker as a potential threat to national security, they would be too busy to do anything else. My grand-mother had one. My mother still owns the pressure-cooker she received in the 1960s as a wedding gift.

ad pressure cooker

Cocotte minute traditionnelle
Old-fashioned pressure cooker, treasured in a [French] kitchen near you

I own a pressure-cooker too. I did not like the shape or price tag of the models advertised in the U.S. in fancy stores. Years ago, 7 months pregnant, I flew back to Seattle after a vacation in Paris. In those pre-September 11 days, my carefully wrapped carry-on was a SEB pressure cooker purchased at the most excellent Darty chain. I have used it often, and love how easy it is to cook when pinched for time, with reliable and delicious results. A story I am proud of: I once served my famous coq-au-vin at a French expats’ dinner party, as requested by the host. When I presented the dish in a traditional cocotte le Creuset that evening, guests raved about it. After sampling it and smacking his lips, a French native shared with us the secret of French cooking: “food lovingly prepared, left to simmer for hours on the stove.” He never knew the dish had been cooked in less than an hour in the pressure cooker the night before, and reheated for the party.

SEB
SEB and le Creuset are B.F.F.s chez French Girl in Seattle (Photo FGIS)

3. La Raclette TEFAL 

The previous two are classic French cookware. This one does not necessarily qualify as cookware, yet you will see it pop up on many French tables in the winter months. Again, expensive versions are sold at gourmet kitchen stores in the U.S. My favorite Raclette machine is made by TEFAL (you can find it online when ordering from a Canadian store.) If you have never tried throwing an impromptu Raclette party for friends in the winter, I highly recommend it! Melted Raclette cheese, cold cuts, condiments, a few sliced vegetables, boiled potatoes, a good dry wine, and a green salad. How bad can it be?

Raclette Tefal

 

Raclette

 

Let’s continue with our small kitchen accessory collection…

4. L’Opinel 

Manufactured in the Savoie region since the late 19th century, the Opinel folding knife is still a classic, sturdy, basic and efficient. It is also versatile, and can be used at home, or during a picnic. It traditionally comes in the traditional natural-colored wood handle version; but in recent years, marketing has kicked in, and bright colors have popped up. Mine was purchased in Chamonix, many picnics ago. I always bring it on trips, securely packed at the bottom of my suitcase. I have never met a French cheese I did not want to sample, while exploring Paris, Nice, or Toulouse. If Homeland Security have spotted it when scanning my bags, they have never seemed to bother.

Opinel

5. L’Econome (the frugal one)

The humble vegetable peeler, invented in Thiers in the 1930s, is ubiquitous in many French kitchens, and for good reason. Even if newer gadgets do a faster job, few can rival the sharp point of l’Econome to remove potato eyes. I have had mine for years.

Econome
Lovely colors for this Econome rainbow!

 

6. L’ouvre bouteille Charles de Gaulle

Meet the bottle opener named after the famous French politician and military hero. No additional comment is necessary. This is France. We love wine, and many still love De Gaulle.

Tire bouchon 1
Arms down…

 

Charles de Gaulle
Arms up…

 

7. La Boîte à Camembert

We love it. Traditionally made out of poplar trees, (like the crates displaying oysters or strawberries at the local outdoor market,) the Camembert box is a French icon. Authentic, rustic, it contains and preserves the runny, smelly cheese; and is said to improve its taste. One problem: Poplars are an endangered tree in France. Alternatives have appeared on the market, though we can all agree eating fresh cheese out of plastic does not quite do the trick (from an aesthetic or a culinary viewpoint.)

Boite a camembert
Le classique
boite camembert plastique
Bof!

8. Le Savon de Marseille

French hand-milled soap makes a popular gift. The oldest brand may very well be le savon de Marseille, handmade in France for over 500 hundred years. The name became a protected trademark under Louis XIV. It appears the Sun King – contradicting the rumor – was aware bad smells could not be hidden by an excessive use of perfume, even in Versailles. Marseille soap can be found in many colors, shapes, and in liquid form. I have a bottle on my kitchen sink and enjoy its light fragrance when I wash my hands. My favorite version remains the iconic bloc de savon. I have not yet found a better way of removing stubborn stains from shirt collars, or a dirty tablecloth.

SavondeMarseille
The tourist version…
savon de marseille
My grandmother’s version (and mine)

9. Le Verre Duralex

Born in the 1940s and manufactured in France, the Duralex glass collection has conquered the world. It boasts a classic, but streamlined design, and is almost unbreakable. The Paris Musée des Arts Décoratifs once honored it in a special exhibit. I drink juice every morning in the Picardie model. I love that James Bond enjoys an occasional drink in the same glass!

Verres Duralex

Bond Duralex
Bond. James Bond. Meet Duralex. Just Duralex.

And finally…

10. Le caddie 

This one is rather bulky, and it does not fit in the French kitchen pantry. You will typically find it in the hallway closet, or stored outside, on the balcony. Le caddie rules city streets in walking-centric France. Chances are it helped carry most items you find in the French kitchen. Everyone uses it, not just old ladies. After all, manufacturers have made sure to make it look more appealing to different age groups. Le caddie as street fashion accessory? Absolument. Word of caution to foreign visitors: Many tourists have been injured when bumping inadvertently in a caddie while taking selfies!

Caddie
A caddie, somewhere in Belleville (Photo FGIS)

 

Caddie nouvelle gamme
Fun looking caddies!

 

I hope you enjoyed this colorful and good-spirited tour of the French kitchen. To paraphrase a favorite French comic book series, “The year is 2015. The world has been taken over by globalization. Well, not entirely… One small country filled by some indomitable Gallic brands still holds out against the invaders and fights to preserve the traditions of the French kitchen.” Vive la France!

asterix-banquet
Asterix, Obelix, and their friends (All rights reserved, Gosciny and Uderzo.)

 

A bientôt.

Merci de votre visite. Do you want to read more about France and French culture?

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— French Girl in Seattle

17 Responses to 10 French kitchen must-haves

  1. I have rented a number of airbnb apts in either Lyon or Paris and have yet to find one with a kitchen like the one you describe! Ikea dishes and a few pots seem to be the standard equipment, unfortunately. However, if I were an owner, I might not want to let careless renters destoy my beloved set of Le Creuset.

    Re your comment about wooden cheese boxes and the scarcity of poplar trees, it’s not just an issue of pretty packaging. The wood actually contributes to the taste of many cheeses – interesting article about the relation of spruce wood to the taste of le vacherin Mont d’Or at http://www.produits-laitiers.com/article/question-pas-bete-pourquoi-certains-fromages-sont-ils-entoures-de-bois

    • Merci for sharing the article about the Vacherin Mont d’Or. Très intéressant. I certainly hope France continues to use poplars to store some of the best cheese. I have an adverse physical reaction to seeing cheese constantly wrapped in plastic in my corner of American suburbia. You can never smell it. Dommage.

  2. Ah, ah…we have several camembert cheese boites tacked to our wall as decoration–including a giant one about 18″ across that Miss Chef brought home from work years ago.

    My year in Paris, that caddy made me jealous of grey-haired grannies, as I wouldn’t spend the money on one. They were surprisingly expensive, as I recall.

    • Camembert boxes as wall decor? Pourquoi pas? (as long as you can get rid of the smell, of course!) I owned a caddie in Paris for a while. It was a fun one, and I remember getting one at the local “Dollar store,” so it was not too pricey. It came in handy on my Saturday morning trips to the local outdoor market in the 11th arrondissement. A bientôt!

  3. J’ai tout dans ma cuisine, sauf l’opinel. 😉
    You are absolutely right; nearly all of the items mentioned can be found in my kitchen. Love my caddie when I go to the market ; so convenient! And it’s not only the old ladies who use it; lots of younger people do too.
    I inherited my flame Creuset from my Mum and it’ll most likely be handed down to my daughter after me.
    Duralex glasses, especially the narrow bottom one, scream school or company cantine! They are everywhere!

    One word of caution concerning le savon de Marseille. There has been a scandal last year when it came to light that most savon de Marseille sold on Marché de Provence are actually produced in China and not in Provence.
    Astérix was probably away fighting for another brand. 🙂

  4. Comment faire de la bonne cuisine française ?il suffit de suivre le guide de votre blog pour les outils ….mais comment s’y prendre ? C’est tout l’art de nos grands-mères passé de main en main !

  5. Love my Le Creuset dutch oven! Also have a small skillet from them that is probably 35 (?) years old now, still cooking like a champ.

    We inherited my in-laws’ raclette maker (also with a few decades under its, er…belt), and it’s become our New Year’s Eve family tradition.

    Duralex glasses, check! Wine opener, check! Four for ten…pas mal?

  6. The “only upper body workout” statement was hilarious! Thank you so much for an entertaining read. I don’t have a Le Creuset yet but I am seriously thinking about getting one as I am seeing a lot of recipes that calls for its use. Thank you again!

  7. I brought my caddie in Paris last year for about 12 euros and I love it! Took it back on the train to st Malo and it has been an absolute god send getting my shopping home up the steep hill in Guernsey! I do get some strange looks though……

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Paris nostalgia

Paris nostalgia

Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris has done more to foster Paris nostalgia than any other movie in recent memory. What is nostalgia? Is it a good or a bad thing? Exactement. Can you blame us for wanting to escape the present when we turn on the news these days? As I browsed my photo archives this…

12 Responses to Paris nostalgia

  1. i was just in Paris and determined to find the Galérie Vivienne which I did manage to do. On a previous visit a few years ago, I happened upon the Passage des Panoramas and absolutely loved it!

  2. Bonjour. What a lovely article. Merci bien. We visited just one of these galeries in May, Galerie Vivienne. It was so beautiful. But expensive! I looked at scarves for over 100 euros at two different shops. Needless to say, I did not purchase one. But it was fun to look around & take pictures. Next time I will look for the others you mention here. They sound wonderful. Regards, Diana

    • Wonderful to hear from you g. It feels great to be back, after several months away from the keyboard. My Facebook community has been the only thing I’ve had time for, after taking that new position last May. I knew I had a few more stories to tell before the next Paris trip at the end of the year, so yesterday, I thought: “Pourquoi pas?” I hope life is good for you on the East Coast. Everything ok here, with the teenager, in the 10th grade already! Stay in touch. Bon dimanche!

  3. Thanks so much for the galleries tour. They are fascinating, and a great way to spend a dreary day. My wife and I walked through several of the covered galleries last month, and we were lucky enough not to run into a bomb scare at Galerie Colbert. It’s very calm and formal, and it was nearly devoid of people that day. Thanks for the déjà-vue!

    • Merci Tom. So happy you got to see Galerie Colbert. It’s usually pretty quiet, compared to the covered arcades closer to the 9th arrondissement. The whole story (which I did not share) was that there had been a bomb threat, and they did not have enough staff on hand to keep patrolling the Galerie, so they chose to keep it closed instead. Having lived through two waves of terrorist attacks in Paris in the late 1980s and early 1990s, I can certainly understand, and did not try to argue too much– which, in other circumstances, I would have done with gusto, just like in my (good old) Parisian days 🙂 Bon weekend!

  4. J’éprouve un grand plaisir à revoir tous ces passages couverts que je connais par coeur pour les avoir arpentés pendant des années et y avoir fait des achats . Ils ont tous une histoire et font l’objet de visites guidées .

    Nostalgie …

    Merci Véro pour cette agréable promenade .

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